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Conquering the roof of Vietnam

Fansipan, or Fan Si Pan, towers over in the northern prov-ince of Lao Cai. The well-known mountain, seen as the roof of Indochina, is the place in Vietnam for hikers and adventurers. Doubtlessly, standing on its top is a dazzling, unforgettable memory. But of course, there is no laurel wreath without sweat. According to the stories of those who have conquered the region’s tallest peak, Fansipan is a place of beauty, danger and pride.

Preparations and departure

Ahead of the journey, besides getting their strong will and eager-to-start attitude ready, trekkers have to prepare enough food for at least three days. It is simply impossible to get to the top within a day, and there are certainly no restaurants or five-star hotels on the way. Very important for the journey is also hiring a guide. The only way to get up is on foot and with the guidance of locals who know the paths and the weather well. Although daring adventurers could conquer Fansipan by themselves without guide, this is very dangerous. You may get lost or take a lot of time, running out of food.

Once everything is ready, hikers can hit on the road, and there is much to see. Thousands of plants, including rare trees, grow on the mountain. A lot jackfruit trees sprout at the foot. Higher up, around 700 meters above sea level, is a natural forest with many creepers growing thickly and pomu, a regional tree as big as two or three bear hugs and very tall. A good time for the adventure is around late February because all kinds of flowers in the mountainous region begin to blossom then. Most hikers cannot help stopping to catch their breath and gaze in amazement at the natural beauty on the way. Among the plants are many types of rhododendron, growing densely and brightly in the region. Some ethnic minority groups even call Fansipan rhododendron mountain.

Challenges and awards

Fansipan does not welcome those who are frail and have a weak will! Needless to enumerate all the hardships along the road; suffice to say conquerors have to walk in line, one after one, holding on fast to wet trees along the path. At some point you must trek through thick forests and pass through waterfalls with much water rushing from very high up. Other times, hikers must walk near an abyss, so deep that their hair will stand on end, or use a robe to climb up the rock.

Because of the high altitude the weather is very cold. So even if hikers are tired and exhausted, their guides don’t let them rest for long because of the cold. Meals are an exception. A hot bowl of rice soup tastes even better during a strenuous hike and in the cold weather. A small foot massage can also bring relief. Because of the difficulties, quite a few people give up half way up the mountain! But persisting is worth it. The higher you get, the more clouds mix into the forest, giving hikers the feeling that they can catch the clouds with their hands. Also, the higher conquerors reach, the more beautiful the landscapes are.

At the height of some 2,800 meters, the sky will be blue and clear. Winds blow from all directions. Even higher, trekkers will see a milestone marking the year of 1905, when some French reached the peak of this mountain. Then hikers see a very big stone to show them that they are standing at the height of 3,143 meters. That is the top of Fansipan! Adventure lovers can contact travel agencies in the town of Sapa for more information. Climbing the mountain costs around VND2.5 to VND3 million per person, including help from a guide and porters, and food for the journey.

By Pham Le - The Saigon Times Daily - June 27, 2006.