Vietnamese swamp ``market economy''
temple
BAC NINH - The last thing many people
across Asia feel is lucky as the region's economic crisis tosses millions
back into poverty.
But thousands of Vietnamese are counting their good fortune and
flocking to the famous Ba Chua Kho temple near the capital Hanoi to
show gratitude for being spared the worst of the misery.
Businessmen in pinstripe suits rub shoulders with pig farmers at the
temple, nicknamed the ``market economy shrine'' for its reputation as
Vietnam's best site to pray for prosperity.
``Our business has been good and because of this we must remember
and give thanks,'' said Nguyen Truong Son, who owns a hotel in Hanoi
30 km (19 miles) away.
The hillside temple was built in the 11th century to honour Ba Chua
Kho, who became a heroine for helping fend off Chinese invaders with
her masterly organisation of provisions.
GET YOUR DIVINE ADVICE FOR BUSINESS HERE
Many Vietnamese now believe that if they make offerings to Ba Chua
Kho at the beginning of each Lunar New Year, known as Tet, she will
provide capital and advice to those seeking to start a business or buy
property.
Age-old beliefs re-emerging during a decade of market-oriented
reforms hold that those blessed with good fortune must return by the
lunar year's end to repay their symbolic debt -- partly by burning fake
gold bars and $100 bills.
For a communist-ruled country that bans superstition, it's an unusual
mix.
With the current Lunar Year due to end on February 15, thousands of
people have flocked from across the country to give thanks at the
temple on the outskirts of Bac Ninh town.
``My business and that of my friends has been good and expanded and
so we come here more often,'' said Pham Lien, 31, who runs a
company in Hanoi making aluminium cookware.
As she spoke, people laden with offerings of sticky rice, stuffed
roosters, fruit, and of course fake greenbacks and gold bars surged up
the steps to the temple grounds.
Inside the temple, devotees bowed to the deity of business. The smell
of burning incense filled the air.
MEMORIES OF HARDSHIP LINGER
Vietnamese are no strangers to economic hardship.
Communist-ruled Vietnam is still one of the world's poorest nations and
only began to drag incomes off the floor when Hanoi dumped
deadening central planning policies in the late 1980s.
Economic growth has slowed in the past 18 months, but the country's
closed financial markets have been partly responsible for keeping it
from diving into recession, as many of its neighbours have.
Many Vietnamese also remember how bad things were just 10 years
ago. The country finally emerged from decades of war to be stalked by
the twin dangers of famine and bankruptcy.
But not everyone at the temple seeks material success.
``Now that I have a grandchild this year, I pray for him to grow up
quickly and have good health, and for the whole family to be safe,''
says 53-year-old Nguyen Canh Sat, a retired government worker.
AGE-OLD TRADITIONS SURVIVE
Dozens of villagers make their living around the temple as calligraphers
writing Vietnamese in Chinese-style characters, since Ba Chua Kho is
believed to be unable to understand the language's current romanised
form.
Nguyen Thai, who wears a long wispy beard like that of revolutionary
leader Ho Chi Minh, has held court as a message writer for 71 years in
a small stall en route to the temple.
His father taught him to inscribe messages when he was only eight, and
Thai has passed the tradition down to his grandson.
Each day Thai writes up to 40 messages for worshippers.
``People pray for good health, good luck and longevity,'' Thai said as
he dipped an old quill pen into an ink jar.
Up from the temple on the top of the hill is a different shrine, this one to
Ho Chi Minh himself, who died in 1969.
A band of ageing veterans of Vietnam's war against the French --
which ended in 1954 -- tend the shrine while also guarding the Ba
Chua Kho temple.
``People come from Ho Chi Minh City and foreign countries such as
Canada, America, China and Thailand,'' says Nguyen Van Ngu, 74,
who joined the Communist revolution before 1945.
``There are more and more people coming here. There are not enough
car parks,'' added Ngu, pulling his Russian-style fur hat over his ears to
keep out the morning chill.
Reuters - February 04, 1999.
|