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Vietnam's dreams of huge exports to US unravel

HO CHI MINH CITY - Just a few months ago, Vietnamese garment manufacturers were rubbing their hands together with glee, anticipating a major selling spree in the US market. After all, Vietnam had finally gained normal trade relations status with the United States, which among other things meant considerably reduced US tariffs on Vietnamese products. Vietnam also expected an extended non-quota period on its goods after the country's Bilateral Trade Agreement (BTA) with the United States went into effect in late November.

Now, however, Vietnamese garment makers have their heads in their hands. Late last month, US officials suddenly said they were considering cutting short the quota-free period for Vietnamese products, and would be imposing quotas on these as soon as possible. The decision took Vietnamese garment manufacturers by surprise. Today, most say it is small comfort that their goods would nevertheless still enjoy low US tariffs of 3 percent, compared with the 40 percent slapped on products from countries without normal trade relations status with the United States.

"It's really disappointing, " says Nguyen Binh of Saigon Garments No 2, one of the firms that had been aiming to make a mark in the US market. "We had expected the BTA to increase the volume of our exports to the United States," he adds. "Now that quota barriers have been reset, that volume will be largely smaller." Binh also remarks, "Trade with the United States, like political relations, is really not easy." In truth, the local garment industry may have wanted too much too soon. This is despite repeated warnings of some senior Vietnamese officials to take things slowly, and for local businesses to do their homework first before making an attempt to venture into the US market.

"Speaking frankly, I do not think we are yet in a position to take full advantage of the pact," Planning and Investment Minister Tran Xuan Gia even said recently. "Not all industries are properly prepared and many enterprises don't even understand the content of the agreement." Such words contrast with those uttered by Vietnam Garment and Textile Corp (Vinatex) officials soon after the trade pact was signed last year. Indeed, Vinatex deputy director Vu Duc Thinh had even said that Vietnam was "well placed" to take orders, which he said would be redirected from previous "source countries" that were now regarded as politically unstable such as Pakistan, Turkey, Indonesia and the Philippines.

Vinatex chair Le Quoc An, who had spent at least two years preparing to enter the US market, also announced that the US Textile Garment and Leather Shoes Association had a plan to come to Vietnam in January to continue discussions for cooperation programs. He said as well that "US delegations" had "signed contracts for exports with Vinatex". At the time, Vinatex had struck a deal with the US-based transnational DuPont, which would supply materials and modern technology to the Vietnamese firm to help improve production standards and make Vinatex's goods suitable for the US market. Vinatex had also opened offices in Hong Kong and New York in anticipation of an influx of new clients from abroad. Predicted An: "Our target of US$1 billion in exports to the American market is achievable."

Other Vietnamese companies were also busy inking contracts with US firms. At least three companies based here in Ho Chi Minh City, for instance, secured contracts to export a total of 5 million shirts and trousers in the second quarter of 2002. In Hanoi, a number of firms clinched contracts to supply a total of 1 million polo shirts and 48 million pairs of underwear to US clients.

These days, though, many in the garments industry are wondering if the officially set targets for garments and textiles exports to the United States would be revised in the wake of the recent US announcement. Current textile and garment exports to the United States are only about $50 million per year. Officials had expected this to increase to $200 million this year. By 2005, the predictions were that the garment exports to the United States alone would grow to some $1.5 billion. Meanwhile, some industry observers say local garments manufacturers would do well to take advantage of the seminars being given by the Vietnam Chamber of Commerce and Industry (VCCI) regarding the US market. As it is, they say, too many Vietnamese clothing firms have gone full tilt into the US market without sufficient market information or even buyer contacts.

An online newsletter published by Mekong Sources, a US consulting firm based in Vietnam, warns, "There will be nothing easy about exporting textile and garment products to the USA." "[Suppliers] will quickly understand why there are so many lawyers in America," it also says. "Manufacturers who want to sell textile and garment products to US buyers must run a gamut of rules and regulations."

By Tran Dinh Thanh Lam - Inter Press Service - March 08, 2002.